This morning we checked out of the hotel at 09:30 and left our tiny case there for collection later as we don't have to be at the airport until about 18:30.
I mentioned to the receptionist how lovely it would have been to have tea and coffee making facilities in the room (as is quite normal these days and we'd taken cappuccino sachets and redbush t-bags with us in anticipation). Apparently all we had to do was ask and we could have had a kettle etc - except there wasn't anything in our room to tell us it was available on request. I tried to explain that to the receptionist but I fear it went over his head.
We headed off to explore the Jewish Quarter; somehow I'd expected Prague to be greener, with many trees and parks but in fact this was one of the few spaces we saw.
This surrealistic sculpture depicts a mini Franz Kafka (Novelist 1883-1924) riding on the shoulders of a giant, empty suit.
This surrealistic sculpture depicts a mini Franz Kafka (Novelist 1883-1924) riding on the shoulders of a giant, empty suit.
On arrival at Josefov, once the base of one of the most influential Jewish communities in Europe, we bought another circuit ticket giving us access to 6 sites.
The Jewish community in Prague was founded in 11th century and since then has been alternately accepted and ostracised by the ruling dynasties. We learned that one of the main reasons that Jews became traders was because they weren't allowed to own land and be farmers, nor learn a trade. All they could do was be moneylenders as that was considered an unacceptable profession for gentiles. Over time and with permission from certain Kings, with the wealth many amassed from money lending they were able to start trading, often in precious metals.
Our first stop was the Old-New Synagogue. Built at the beginning of the 13th century it is the oldest active synagogue in Europe.
Never having been in one, I had no idea what to expect and it all seemed rather basic and medieval.
A close-up of what at first appeared to be metal toilet seats.
All male visitors were required to wear a Kippah
Instead of lighting a candle in memory of someone, you can dedicate a light which is then lit up on birthdays and special occasions (looks more like a room call system from a large English stately home)
Next on the itinerary was the Maisel Synagogue which is now a permanent museum (I could pretend I shot at an arty-farty angle but it's just wretched converging verticals).
In the days leading to the genocide of millions of Jews by the Nazis in WW11 the treasures of numerous synagogues in Bohemia were brought to Prague for safe keeping but everything was behind glass so not photographable.
Then to the Pinkas Synagogue which is the second oldest building in the Prague ghetto. It began in 1535 as a private house of prayer but today its importance lies in its role as a memorial to the victims of the Holocaust from Bohemia and Moravia. The list for the inscriptions was compiled from sources which include surviving transport papers and registration lists.
It is a beautiful, sobering, thought provoking place. Very simple in design internally so all your focus is on the thousands and thousands of names - 80,000 in total - hand-painted on the walls.
The names were arranged alphabetically by district/town and then by name and all family members were together. A truly mammoth task and the writing was so consistent throughout.
There was an upstairs gallery containing yet more panels of names
Which afforded super views of the lovely ceiling and stained glass windows.
I'm not usually in favour of "piped" music in buildings, but here I make an exception - the beautiful music being played throughout our visit added to the whole experience even though I have no idea what it was.
The Jewish Cemetery was next. This small area was once the only burial ground available to Jews and as such each plot was used by several generations. It is thought that over 12,000 gravestones were placed here between 1429 and 1787, indeed in some places the gravestones are just piled up where they've fallen over. I took a few too many shots.
I presume these little notes are messages to ancestors buried here. We did see several people showing emotion standing by certain gravestones.
On to the Ceremonial Hall but by now we were a little tired and not overly interested in the displays. Upstairs there were some rather cute paintings, all by the same artist and I'd have like to photograph more of them but the window and ceiling light reflections made it impossible.
Our final stop was the Klausan Synagogue which housed an exhibition of Jewish Customs and Traditions, again mostly behind glass.
But I rather like the stained glass and ceiling
Time for lunch, I think.
Never having been in one, I had no idea what to expect and it all seemed rather basic and medieval.
A close-up of what at first appeared to be metal toilet seats.
All male visitors were required to wear a Kippah
Instead of lighting a candle in memory of someone, you can dedicate a light which is then lit up on birthdays and special occasions (looks more like a room call system from a large English stately home)
Next on the itinerary was the Maisel Synagogue which is now a permanent museum (I could pretend I shot at an arty-farty angle but it's just wretched converging verticals).
In the days leading to the genocide of millions of Jews by the Nazis in WW11 the treasures of numerous synagogues in Bohemia were brought to Prague for safe keeping but everything was behind glass so not photographable.
Then to the Pinkas Synagogue which is the second oldest building in the Prague ghetto. It began in 1535 as a private house of prayer but today its importance lies in its role as a memorial to the victims of the Holocaust from Bohemia and Moravia. The list for the inscriptions was compiled from sources which include surviving transport papers and registration lists.
It is a beautiful, sobering, thought provoking place. Very simple in design internally so all your focus is on the thousands and thousands of names - 80,000 in total - hand-painted on the walls.
The names were arranged alphabetically by district/town and then by name and all family members were together. A truly mammoth task and the writing was so consistent throughout.
There was an upstairs gallery containing yet more panels of names
Which afforded super views of the lovely ceiling and stained glass windows.
I'm not usually in favour of "piped" music in buildings, but here I make an exception - the beautiful music being played throughout our visit added to the whole experience even though I have no idea what it was.
The Jewish Cemetery was next. This small area was once the only burial ground available to Jews and as such each plot was used by several generations. It is thought that over 12,000 gravestones were placed here between 1429 and 1787, indeed in some places the gravestones are just piled up where they've fallen over. I took a few too many shots.
I presume these little notes are messages to ancestors buried here. We did see several people showing emotion standing by certain gravestones.
On to the Ceremonial Hall but by now we were a little tired and not overly interested in the displays. Upstairs there were some rather cute paintings, all by the same artist and I'd have like to photograph more of them but the window and ceiling light reflections made it impossible.
Our final stop was the Klausan Synagogue which housed an exhibition of Jewish Customs and Traditions, again mostly behind glass.
But I rather like the stained glass and ceiling
Time for lunch, I think.
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